Hours:

Wednesdays and Saturdays 8:00-1:00 (July and August 8:30-5:00)

History:

Tucked into the lush hills of the Périgord Noir, the town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is a jewel of medieval France, famous not just for its honey-colored stone buildings and winding cobblestone streets, but also for one of the country’s most beloved food markets. Today, this market is a feast for the senses—but its roots run deep, shaped by centuries of history, trade, tradition, and a fierce regional pride in gastronomy.

The story of Sarlat begins in the 9th century, when a Benedictine abbey was established here. The abbey quickly became a powerful religious and economic force in the region. By the 13th century, Sarlat had grown into a flourishing town and received a charter from the French king, giving it the right to hold regular markets and fairs. These charters were significant—they meant the town could levy taxes, regulate trade, and attract merchants from far and wide.

The markets of medieval Sarlat were vibrant affairs. Local farmers would bring their produce—onions, garlic, and seasonal vegetables—while traders arrived with goods from as far away as Bordeaux and even Spain. Everything from salt and textiles to spices and dried fish might be on offer. Livestock was sold in the outlying fields, and bartering was as common as coin.

The central market square, now known as the Place de la Liberté, was the focal point of this activity. Under the shadow of the abbey and later the cathedral, market stalls crowded the square, and deals were struck beneath the watchful eyes of stone gargoyles and town officials.

As the centuries passed, Sarlat’s market became known for the rich bounty of the surrounding Dordogne countryside. By the 17th and 18th centuries, several products had come to define the region: duck and goose, especially prepared as foie gras, walnuts, wild mushrooms like cèpes, and of course, the prized Périgord black truffle.

Local folklore tells of entire families heading into the woods at dawn during truffle season, dogs in tow, in search of the elusive fungi. Truffles were (and still are) sold in the winter market, often weighed on tiny brass scales and kept wrapped in linen to preserve their aroma. It's said that deals were sometimes struck in whispers, with the best finds kept secret and sold discreetly to favored buyers or chefs from nearby châteaux.

Meanwhile, walnut oil—pressed in small family-run mills—was used not just for cooking, but for lamp fuel and even as currency in times of hardship.

The Sarlat market endured the tumult of the French Revolution, Napoleonic wars, and two World Wars. During these times, the market served as a lifeline. It was where townspeople bartered for essentials, shared news, and maintained a semblance of normal life. In World War II, Sarlat’s isolation in the rugged hills of the Dordogne kept it relatively safe, and the market continued to function—albeit quietly—through the German occupation.

After the war, Sarlat entered a new phase. A growing appreciation for France’s rural heritage and culinary traditions led to a revival of interest in places like Sarlat. In the 1960s, the town underwent significant restoration work under André Malraux, then Minister of Culture, making it one of the first French towns to benefit from a historic preservation law. The market, now enhanced by the restored beauty of Sarlat’s medieval architecture, became a major attraction.

Today, Sarlat’s food market is held twice a week—on Wednesdays (a smaller version) and Saturdays (the grand affair). It is no longer just for locals; visitors from around the world come to experience it. Stalls spill through the Place de la Liberté, along Rue de la République, and into surrounding lanes. Sellers offer:

• Fresh goat cheeses wrapped in chestnut leaves

• Ropes of garlic and strings of dried sausages

• Duck in every form: confit, magret, rillettes, and foie gras

• Local wines and liqueurs infused with walnut or raspberry

• Crusty bread, plump prunes, and seasonal fruits

• Piles of earthy mushrooms and black truffles (in winter)

The market is more than commerce—it’s performance. Vendors call out their specials, offer tastings, and explain how their grandparents made the same walnut cake or pâté. You'll hear the soft clink of old copper pans for sale, smell roasted chestnuts in the colder months, and catch strains of accordion music echoing off the stone walls.

CANOËS LOISIRS

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History:

The Dordogne River, one of France’s most enchanting waterways, winds over 480 kilometers (nearly 300 miles) through mountains, valleys, forests, and vineyards before joining the Garonne and flowing into the Atlantic. But this river isn’t just a scenic backdrop—it’s been a vital lifeline, a place of legends, and a source of inspiration for millennia.

The Dordogne begins high in the Massif Central, where two mountain streams—the Dore and the Dogne—merge at an altitude of over 1,700 meters. The name “Dordogne” is thought to come from these two tributaries, though some believe it has pre-Celtic roots, possibly meaning "water" or "river of the gods."

From its alpine birth, the Dordogne flows westward, carving through dramatic gorges, misty forests, and finally, the storybook countryside of the Périgord region.

The Dordogne Valley—especially around Les Eyzies and Lascaux—is often called the "Cradle of Prehistory." Some of the earliest humans lived here, and the cliffs that rise above the river are honeycombed with caves that shelter 40,000 years of human history.

Most famously, the Lascaux cave paintings, discovered by four teenage boys in 1940, are just a short drive from the river. These breathtaking images of bulls, horses, and stags—painted with natural pigments over 17,000 years ago—are considered masterpieces of early human art.

The Vézère River, a tributary of the Dordogne, runs through Les Eyzies and has so many archaeological sites that the entire valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In medieval times, the Dordogne was more than a waterway—it was a front line. During the Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453) between the French and the English, the river often marked the boundary between enemy territories.

The hills along the Dordogne bristled with castles—both French and English—keeping watch over the valley.

The region was a constant tug-of-war between warring factions, and the river itself was used for transporting troops, food, and weapons.

By the 17th and 18th centuries, the Dordogne had become a vital trade route. Long, flat-bottomed boats called gabares carried goods—especially walnut oil, wine, wood, salt, and truffles—downstream toward Bordeaux and the Atlantic.

Navigating the Dordogne wasn’t easy. The river has strong currents and hidden rocks, and gabariers (boatmen) had to be skilled and fearless. Once a barge reached its destination, it was often dismantled and sold as lumber—there was no easy way to bring it back upstream.

Some towns, like La Roque-Gageac, Bergerac, and Souillac, flourished thanks to this river trade.

The Dordogne River has its share of folklore, too. Local legend speaks of a water dragon that lived beneath the surface, disturbing fishermen and sinking boats. Others claim that ancient spirits guard the river’s springs, rewarding those who respect the land and punishing those who pollute or exploit it.

In reality, the river is a treasure trove of biodiversity. It’s one of the few rivers in France to support wild Atlantic salmon, as well as otters, kingfishers, and even the rare European mink. In 2012, it became part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, thanks to its ecological importance and careful preservation.

Today, the Dordogne River is a magnet for travelers, artists, and nature lovers. Canoeing along its glassy surface beneath towering limestone cliffs is one of the great pleasures of visiting southwest France. People picnic on sandbanks, paddle past castles, and float under stone bridges that have stood for centuries.

Whether you're following the river by car, foot, bike, or boat, you're moving through time. You’re drifting past prehistoric settlements, medieval battlegrounds, Renaissance farms, and untouched forests—all in one journey.

The Dordogne River is more than just a ribbon of water—it’s the soul of a region. It has shaped the land, nurtured civilizations, and witnessed millennia of human life. From Paleolithic painters to medieval knights, truffle hunters to modern-day paddlers, the river has always called people to its banks.

Castelnaud-la-Chapelle

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Perched high above the Dordogne River, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle Castle is one of the most dramatic fortresses in France—its jagged silhouette standing guard over the valley like a stone sentinel from another age. Built in the 12th century, its purpose was clear from the start: control the land, dominate the river, and outlast every rival. Its name, Castelnaud, means "new castle" in Occitan, but there was nothing soft or ceremonial about its origins. It rose during a time when feudal lords fought as fiercely as foreign armies, and every hilltop in the region bristled with ambition.

Early on, the castle fell into the hands of the Cathar heretics, a religious group despised by the Catholic Church. In 1214, during the brutal Albigensian Crusade, Simon de Montfort—the ruthless leader of the Catholic forces—stormed the castle, slaughtered the Cathars, and claimed it for the Church. That was just the beginning. During the Hundred Years’ War, Castelnaud switched sides more than once. The lords of Castelnaud aligned with the English, making it a key outpost in enemy hands. Just across the river, the French-loyal Château de Beynac glared back. The two castles, locked in a cold war of stone, exchanged fire, spies, and sabotage. It’s said the lords hurled flaming messages across the river by trebuchet, and nighttime raids lit the valley with torches and screams.

As warfare evolved, so did the castle. New defenses were added—massive towers, sloping walls, and a barbican to repel siege weapons. Castelnaud became a fortress of innovation, housing catapults, battering rams, and deadly crossbows. But even stone had its limits. By the 16th century, during the French Wars of Religion, Protestant Huguenots seized the castle and fortified it once again. When Catholic forces returned, they left cannon fire scars that still mark the walls. Yet the real enemy wasn't France or England—it was time. As the age of gunpowder dawned, castles became obsolete, and by the 17th century, Castelnaud was abandoned to ivy and decay.

For centuries it stood as a crumbling relic, until the 1960s, when restoration brought it back to life. Today, it’s a museum of medieval warfare, filled with life-size siege engines, armor, and weapons. Visitors climb its towers, once crowded with archers, and walk along battlements that bore witness to betrayal, siege, and survival. Locals whisper of hidden tunnels, buried English gold, and the ghosts of Cathar martyrs. Whether truth or legend, the castle’s aura is undeniable.

Standing on its ramparts today, looking across to rival Beynac, it’s easy to feel the pulse of centuries past—when stone walls made kingdoms, and the river below ran not just with water, but with the blood of history.

Sarlat-la-Canéda, often simply called Sarlat, is one of the most beautifully preserved medieval towns in France, tucked into the heart of the Dordogne region. Its honey-colored stone buildings, narrow winding lanes, and Gothic and Renaissance architecture have remained largely untouched for centuries, offering visitors a rare glimpse into the past. But behind its postcard-perfect charm lies a deep and complex history shaped by religion, politics, and resilience.

Sarlat's roots date back to at least the 9th century, when it developed around a Benedictine abbey. The abbey gained influence and independence over time, and by the 11th century, Sarlat had become a religious and administrative hub. In 1154, after the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry II of England, the region fell under English rule, a situation that would play a major role in Sarlat’s turbulent history during the Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453).

Despite shifting allegiances and periods of conflict, Sarlat prospered during the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance thanks to trade, agriculture, and its strategic location along the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Wealth from commerce allowed for the construction of many of the town’s magnificent mansions, known as hôtels particuliers, which still stand today with their elegant stone façades and sculpted details.

However, the Wars of Religion in the 16th century brought violence and instability. As a Catholic stronghold in a region with growing Protestant influence, Sarlat experienced internal conflict and periods of occupation. Despite the turmoil, the town remained relatively intact architecturally, which would prove significant centuries later.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Sarlat began to decline, with much of its medieval core falling into disrepair. But in the 1960s, the town underwent a remarkable transformation thanks to the efforts of writer and politician André Malraux, then France’s Minister of Culture. His Loi Malraux, a law aimed at preserving historic city centers, led to the careful restoration of Sarlat’s old town, making it one of the first major successes of France’s heritage preservation movement.

Today, Sarlat-la-Canéda is known not only for its architecture but also for its vibrant cultural life and celebrated gastronomy. The town is a center of Périgord cuisine—especially famous for its truffles, foie gras, and duck confit—and its weekly market, held in front of the magnificent former cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos, dates back to medieval times.

Sarlat is more than a historical relic—it’s a living town that embodies the spirit of the Dordogne: proud, storied, and deeply connected to its past. Whether wandering its cobbled streets at dusk or savoring local specialties under its 14th-century covered market, visitors experience a place where history isn’t just preserved—it’s alive in every stone.